The Rockaways: From Irish Town to 21st century surf spot

Written by Edil Cuepo

 

 

 

 

“Chewin’ at a rhythm on my bubble gum

The sun is out, I want some

It’s not hard, not far to reach

We can hitch a ride to Rockaway Beach”

“Rockaway Beach” – Ramones, 1977

 

 

 

 

 

Sitting some twenty miles away from midtown Manhattan and facing the raging Atlantic, the Rockaway Beach Peninsula is New York’s summer haven. Boasting seven miles of beachfront, Rockaway beach is the only legal surfing destination in NYC. For non-surfers, Rockaways’ trendy food spots and welcoming vibe make it a great place to cool down in the summer heat without needing to travel too far. What’s not to like about sand in your toes and cool waves on a hot summer day?

Back in 1977, The Ramones’ bassist, Dee Dee Ramone, found inspiration on the shores of Rockaway when writing the band’s highest charting single, “Rockaway Beach.” While the Rockaways have increased in popularity as a beach spot among young people and families in recent decades, the peninsula is more than just a favorite summer destination. More than a century before The Ramones began their music career, the Rockaways began being shaped by a rich immigrant history.

 

The Rockaways: An Early History

A large number of Irish immigrants first began to settle down in the Rockaways in the mid-19th century during the great Irish immigration wave, sparking development of the area.

Rockaway Beach initially remained comprised of two different villages, Holland and Hammels. In 1897, both towns joined together and became known as the Village of Rockaway Beach. Shortly after, the City of Greater New York incorporated the budding peninsula into the newly formed borough of Queens.

In the early 1900s, Irish families began coming to spend their summers in the Rockaways, to escape from the unbearably hot tenement apartments where they lived in New York. They rented bungalows and frequented Irish pubs for drinks and dancing. It was when people started to refer to the area as “Irish Town.” By the time the New York, Woodhaven, and Rockaway Beach railroads were opened in the early 20th century, access to the Rockaways was easier than ever. One of the city’s largest amusement parks, Playland, was built, transforming the oceanfront community into a playground for New Yorkers. Playland’s most famous attractions were the Atom Smasher rollercoaster and the Olympic-size swimming pool.

The 1930s were also a significant decade for the Rockaway peninsula. During this time, Robert Moses commissioned the building of two bridges, the Marine Parkway Bridge and the Cross Bay Veterans Memorial Bridge. The Marine Parkway Bridge connected the west side of the Rockaways to Brooklyn, while the Cross Bay Bridge opened up the peninsula to the rest of Queens. In addition, the Rockaway Beach railroad was converted into a subway line. With these newly minted connections, the Rockaways more easily attracted residents and eventually became a commuter town.

 

The Rockaways in the 21st century

According to Forbes, the New York neighborhood with the highest percentage of Irish-Americans is Breezy Point, the west end area of the Rockaway Peninsula where over 50 percent of residents are of Irish heritage. As one can imagine, the Rockaways have always been popular on Saint Patrick’s Day. The community holds an annual Saint Patrick’s Day parade on the first Saturday of March. On this occasion, a portion of Newport Avenue and Rockaway Beach Boulevard is closed off so that the Irish community can come together and celebrate.

In November 2012, the Rockaways were among the worst-hit areas of Superstorm Sandy. Every house suffered damages and the majority of the boardwalk was washed away. Still, despite the devastation, the residents of Rockaway Beach remained resilient, and together with city, state, and federal authorities have helped to rebuild the neighborhood. Nearly four years after Sandy, the community is finally back on its feet. The boardwalk is scheduled to reopen this July.

 

The Rockaways: Summer 2016

By the time the peak of the summer rolls around, the historic peninsula will be vibrant as ever. With huge swells, a newly reconstructed boardwalk, and miles of sandy beaches, the Rockaways have something for everyone. And when it comes to culinary options, the Rockaway waterfront has it all, from burgers to arepas, frozen piña coladas to iced coffee.

The best time of the year to visit the Rockaways is between Memorial Day Weekend and Labor Day Weekend. Just take the A train to Beach 96th St or Beach 116th St, the Q35 from Woodside, Queens or the Q53 from Flatbush, Brooklyn to begin a summertime adventure in the Rockaways.